Field Day 2012 & Stuff

Well, FD 2012 is over.  I hope everybody got some good contacts.  I didn't spend that much time on the air--worked it in between household chores, meals, etc.  I got 25 contacts on 15, 20 and 40m.  They are now logged into QRZ, and everybody was sent an eQSL.  Hard copy cards are available upon request.  *Hardcopy cards with a SASE were sent out around Christmas for most contacts.

I finally got a second South American Contact this past week--Bogata, Columbia.  That makes 2, after trying for a year.  Yesterday, I got my last state to complete the Appalachian Trail Basic Award for contacting stations in each state the AT goes through.  I'd actually gotten TN before, but it was on an FM sat, whereas it has to be HF.

Speaking of states, I got my home state of Kentucky a few weeks ago.  You'd think that it wouldn't be that difficult to get the state you live in.  It apparently can be.  Now of course, they've come out of the woodwork and I hear a KY station every couple of days.

After trying and trying, I also finally got Alaska.  With a modest dipole that for 40m, is only 1/4 wavelength above the ground, it took me a while.  That leaves me 3 states for my WAS.  I guess I qualify (or will soon) for my 100 point award with the 3905 Century Club Net.  I need to read the rules.

Update

Not too much to report here.  I enjoyed Museum Ships Weekend, and got some good contacts.  I managed to have contacts in Ecuador, the Slovak Republic (and 2 Russian stations a while back), and some more states.  I found out about the 3905 Century Club Net on 40m.  It is a good way to get WAS and other awards.

I decided to hold off on my Extra Class exam until July.  It will be the new material, but with Ham Test Online, it is proving to be a good way to study.  I have the current ARRL book, but I went ahead and got the 2012-2016 book by Gordo to read and compare.

That's about all to report for now.  Hope everybody is getting some good DX.

Are Hams Getting Apathetic?

I haven't written much lately.  I have noticed that while I get a lot of hits, nobody leaves comments, and I would guess nobody links my blog to anyplace else.  I have also noticed that as many members as Ham Radio Nation has, most polls get a weak response.  To make that worse, the number of people who vote or make comments is only a fraction of the number of people who look at the poll.

My main reason for not babbling on with a lot of trivial posts has to do with the fact that I don't want to hopelessly bore somebody who hits this link.  While it lists noteworthy accomplishments and events, I don't go on about what I ate for breakfast, or every time I did something mundane.

Some ham clubs report weak memberships, and sad participation in club and community service events.  Getting young people involved should be a primary goal with hams.  A local high school in my town just got a class of new hams, and their own station call sign.  But, they only get to talk to local hams on the repeater, and don't have any equipment that is their own.  Their teacher told me that they are getting bored.  We will spend tax dollars to get new furniture for the school board, but is it too much to ask to invest in some radio equipment for students?  The science link, such as astronomy and physics, and math link to ham radio is obvious.  Classes that deal with electricity such as electives and vocational education have a definite link.  The benefits of a lifelong and potentially life-saving hobby seem obvious also.

I notice in my own club that a majority of hams are retired...some for quite a few years.  Where do we get the new blood.  According to statistics, there are more hams being licensed.  We have a responsibility to keep them interested, so those numbers reflect active hams, and do not reflect a lot of inactive licenses waiting to expire.  At least that's my thought for the week.

Oh yeah, I misplaced one of my portable antennas--a 20m EndFedz.  If anybody knows where it is, let me know.  :)

Par EndFedz 10/20/40 Mark II

I recently received my EF-10/20/40 from LnR Precision.  While I haven't gotten it in the air yet, I will give you my preliminary observations.

The build quality is just as good as my 20m model.  The main difference is the shortening stub in the line.  It is about as long as a small pickle.  I suppose it serves as a loading coil.  While the 20m is about 32 feet long, the 40m model is about 40 or so feet long--significantly shorter than a traditional 40m dipole.  Hence, the shortening coil.

Unlike the other models in the line, this one has a matchbox that allows it to be used on 10-60m.  I bought some wire from The Wireman (#534), which is .26 gauge "silky" wire.  I soldered resonators to end rings, and then put hot glue over the section where the wire goes into the connector, as there isn't any insulation.  It seems logical that without insulation, the breaking and twisting point would be more critical.

I think that once I put it up with my 31' Jackite pole, it will yield some good results.  I can recommend these antennas highly.  Just remember that this is a QRP model, with a 25 watt limit.  For digital, I've been told to keep it to around 10 watts just to be safe.

UPDATE: I had originally planned to make individual resonators for other bands. After giving it some thought, I decided to make a jumpered dipole...only requiring one wire to include. The add-ons could be held in place by power poles or alligator clips.

Update

While other parts of Kentucky literally got destroyed, we did o.k.  Tornadoes warnings were posted for the south and north of town, but I don't think anything other than trees suffered major damage locally.  Even the hail and high wind seemed to have missed my part of town.

I've also had good luck in turning my radio power down.  I've been running it between 25 and 50 watts and getting very good reports.  I haven't been able to be on the radio much at all lately, but I'm going to try and experiment more with 5 watts as I can.

Anyway, that is about all for now.

I'm Trying Out QRP SSB

Previously, like most of you I suppose, I had been using 100 watts for QSOs.  Hopefully, this year, I'll be able to afford a truly portable radio, instead of disconnecting all the cables from my FT-450 and lugging it around.

I've been comparing the FT-817ND and the FT-857D.  There is some price difference, and obviously the 857 has 100 watts and more filtering vs. the 5 watt, small footprint, minimal filtering of the 817.  So, I turned my radio down to 5 watts and I've been making contacts.  So far, the reports have been good.  I was feeling all proud of myself until a net control op told me that my audio was what was punching me through.  I got to thinking about it.  My 450 base station mic is set to high gain and is a good quality mic.  The 817 would probably need the add-on to get up to that point, if at all.

Anyway, contacts have been made with my 40m OCF.  At 40m, it resonates as a 1/2 wave dipole.  At 20m, it has a bit stronger wavelength.  So, all things being equal, am I truly getting an accurate QRP experience?  Or, based on the OCF, superior mic of the 450, and quality base rig, am I just getting the QRP experience, or just a watered down output?  I guess to truly understand this one, I'll have to take my portable antennas out and set up my Jackite pole, turn my mic down to normal gain, and see how things turn out.

That said, the 817 is one darned cute radio, capable of small storage space, low battery drain, and it can run on lower power than the 857.  Oh well...I guess trial and error will be helpful.  Hopefully, some of you will reply with your own comments.

73,
Steve

Portable Operations Ideas Part 1 of 4

Like most hams, I envision using my radio in the field as much as possible.  I don't claim to be an expert, but I do read a lot and network...something all hams should do.  While I don't backpack with it, I'll mention factors associated with carrying your radio in a pack.  But, for a lot of hams, just having their radio in the outdoors is a lot of fun.  Doing some DX from a national park, or from atop a mountain, etc. can be quite satisfying.  Drive to a location, set up the gear and enjoy the day.  Bring some food and sodas, and it's a fun day, regardless of DX conditions.  So, here is an article which addresses some considerations.  It doesn't include everything there is, and it is my own personal opinion.  But, I hope you'll gain some additional insight into making your own portable station.  Questions to consider are what to use, weight considerations, effectiveness and of course, cost factors.

For simplicity, I won't go into detail about the differences of QRP radios.  They range from single channel kits that fit into Altoids containers, Elecraft models, up to radios such as the Yaesu FT-817ND and FT-857D.  As I don't do CW, obviously a phone radio is my choice, and Yaesu is my brand of choice.  I also won't discuss CW paddles.

You need a good quality antenna.  That doesn't mean expensive.  Lots of QRP'ers make their own dipoles out of small gauge wire.  The end result is usually a dipole, which can be mono band, or multi-band with alligator clips for band jumpers.  Both are reasonably easy to make.  Plans are available for the jumper version, and I can either tell you how to do it, or point you to an article.  Throw support lines over trees and you're ready for some DX.

Another fantastic antenna is the EndFedz antenna, now made by LnR Precision.  Dale Parfitt, of PAR Electronics designed and made them for years, but Dale has so much government work that he sold the business to Larry Draughon.  Both companies are great to deal with, and eager to talk about the products.  With LnR, you'll probably get Randy Drake, who usually goes into great detail when answering emails.  I prefer the EndFedz antennas because they are super easy to use, either as a horizontal, vertical, sloper or inverted L configuration, and have a built-in balun.  Most of the models are 100 watt mono band, although there is a 10/20 meter model and a QRP 10/20/40 meter version.  The 10/20/40 is especially popular with portable ops, particularly where CW is used.  Once the resonance point is established, they have a very wide range and height or mounting method doesn't seem to affect them that much, with the exception of the 10/20/40 which has a narrow 40 meter bandwidth of 100 kHz.  I especially like the 10/20/40 because you can take the resonator off, and use other bandwidths by cutting some wire to a half-wavelength and fastening it on.  Multi-band use with one balun is an attractive feature.  Mono bands have very wide bandwidths, up to 700 kHz on the 10 meter model.  One reason why these antennas are so popular is because they only require one attachment point in the air. I typically use mine as a sloper.  Tie it between two trees and you have a flat top dipole.  Use it as a sloper,  Hang it vertically out of a motel room window, or use it as an L.  It's one of the most versatile antennas made.  The quality of the EndFedz is first rate, very well thought of in the ham radio community.  With the 10/20/40, keep it to 10 watts for PSK, as it is full duty cycle.

Whether or not you use a balun is up to you.  I have a small Balun Designs QRP balun that comes in handy for dipoles.  EndFedz come with built-in baluns.  Some people don't even use baluns, especially for QRP, while others use an air choke balun (uses a lot of coax).  I use a modification on the conventional way to have a multi-band antenna.  My QRP balun has wing nuts, and I cut several different bands and put end rings on them.  It's super easy to just unscrew the nut and change bands.  Being mono band, there is no bulk or tangle factor associated with band jumpers, and they are easy to tune the SWR for.  The QRP balun is very small.  Obviously, a full sized balun will not work for portable, unless you drive to the location and use it like a base antenna.

Two antennas that are popular include the Buddipole and Buddistick.  Both offer multi-band operation and are extremely versatile.  The Buddistick is a vertical antenna with one counterpoise that supposedly when matched with the coil clip to have resonance, doesn't need any additional wires.  The Buddipole can be configured in a number of ways, including vertical, sloper, L, dipole, etc.  For serious portable and DXpedition users, the Buddipole is very popular.  The good thing is that no trees or buildings are needed, like a dipole would require.  Chris is very helpful in answering questions, and Budd can often be found on the radio, discussing the various applications of his antenna design.  Chris now runs the company.  Chris is usually in the Buddies in the Caribbean videos on YouTube.  My main gripe is that by adjusting the jumper clips and length of pole arms, it requires a bit of trial and error, and certain bands can be difficult to get the SWR adjusted on.  I've read where most people like to use an antenna analyzer with them.  The Buddistick runs about $139 for the bare-bones basic model.  The Buddipole basic kit is $199.  However, to do what is shown in some of the photos, or suggested configurations requires additional components that can easily raise the price by over $100.  However, if I had the money to spare for a Buddipole, with accessories, I would purchase one.  That noted, I like dipoles.  They are inexpensive for homebrew versions.  Even if you prefer to spend the money on EndFedz which range from $52 to $95, purchasing one or so a year is workable, particularly with a credit card or PayPal.  Cut them once and use them.  And finally, there are probably some homebrew or other types of antennas suitable for field use that I can't think of at the moment.  One last note: For VHF/UHF use in the field, Arrow II sat antennas and Elk Log Periodic antennas are the way to go, for portability, durability, and quality for the price.

Radios obviously need a power supply to work.  Radios which can run on a low power drain (such as homebrew QRP CW kit rigs, FT-817, and others) can use regular batteries.  The 817 even has an option of a built-in battery or a battery tray.  A built-in battery doesn't last that long in the field and drops the power output down automatically.  This can be a consideration if you are planning to do phone, have lousy band conditions or lots of stations on the air.

Sealed Lead Acid Batteries (SLAB) are popular.  Examples would be a fish finder battery, lawn mower battery, etc.  They are very affordable.  Cabela's outdoor supply has an 8 amp hour (Ah) model that receives great reviews, and costs about $25, which includes a charger.  Two batteries with the charger costs $55.  Other brands can cost and weigh more, and you can get much higher Ah ratings.  Yes, they are a bit heavy for multi-day trips.  But, for a short hike, over-nighter, or a day trip to somewhere that doesn't have power, they are a very valid consideration.  Getting to your destination by four wheeler, canoe, etc. can make these batteries a very good match for your radio.  By turning down the power, most rigs will run a long time with one.  We like to car camp at primitive campgrounds that don't have power supply lines.  The SLABs allow operating from a comfortable picnic table, or lawn chair.  Like everything, a bit of commonsense comes into play here.  Take an 8 Ah SLAB and key a 22 amp draw radio, and it won't last long...  Turn that radio down to about 5-10 watts output, and now the SLAB will go for a long time.  For times when I can use the vehicle battery, I have battery clips with power poles, where I can just hook my rig up to the battery.  I can use 100 watts if I need to from this strong of a power source.  This directly relates to portable use, because whether you prefer low power or high power, phone or CW or digital, this significantly affects your need for power.  Does QRP do as well as higher power?  Band conditions, location, antenna and pileups have a lot to do with it.  I've gotten out with 5 watts, and never could get a station with 100 watts.  It depends on variables.  One additional consideration is that both CW and digital modes are full-duty cycle, so low power is a necessity.

Another popular battery is the A123 lithium polymer, made by Buddipole.  Prices range from $65 for a 2.3 Ah model, up to $265 for a 9.2 Ah model.  They are becoming very popular and are built solid, with thick heatshrink wrap, power pole connectors, and a self-resetting internal switch to prevent short circuits.  This a real concern for portable use, where you use slide on connectors or alligator clips, etc.  While I'm on the topic, Anderson Power Poles are a must-have for ease of use.  Hook them up in the ARES configuration, and they can be used with other power poles in the same configuration without sliding them apart.

Portable Operations Ideas Part 2 of 4

Last, we'll discuss solar panels as a power supply/charging device.  They are out of my price range...period.  Very limited power ones are available very cheaply, but the quality ones do cost a lot of money.  For someone with a more discretionary budget, they are a good item to have in your portable arsenal.  Used with QRP rigs, they keep your batteries charged and provide power for a long time.  However, getting one that will power rigs that draw more amps can get quite expensive.  So many companies make them, that I won't quote prices or models.

Tuners are a much-debated subject.  Some people take a tuner with them...period.  I don't use an external tuner as my base/fairly mobile/sort of portable FT-450AT has an internal tuner.  It's a 3:1 match, but I try to cut antennas to the lowest SWR and don't anticipate trying to match a 10:1 mismatch, as some manufacturers claim.  Having a 10:1 mismatch...really?  With mine, I simply push the tune button.  If it won't tune, it's either too far out of resonance, or I accidentally hit the "wrong" band button.  Now that I've discussed on-board tuners, which people either love or hate, trust or don't trust, we'll give consideration to external meters and tuners.  I like the idea of a quality external power/SWR meter, especially for rigs that have those pathetic displays.  So many small radios don't have these features, or they are simply bars to look at and have a ballpark figure.  Was that three bars or four?  Which bar means how much SWR?  I can't remember...  I want a number as a reference.

While lots of people don't use external tuners, a lot do.  Some people like to fiddle with knobs, while others like to push a button or have an auto-tuner.  I'm a push the button or full auto-tune kind of person...actually a push the button once and let the tuner do the work person.  For auto-tuners, LDG seems to be the major player.  They make dedicated tuners for some Yaesu and Icom models, including the QRP tuner for an 817.  The Z-100 Plus has a button you push when you want to tune, while other models monitor and memorize settings for different frequencies.  The Z-100 Plus retails for $149.  The Z-11 ProII is very popular and totally automatic.  It costs about $20 or so dollars more than the Z-100 Plus.  The difference between the two is that 1) the Z-100 Plus has one button that you push every time you want to tune, whereas after the first tune, the Z-11 ProII tunes once and is then continuous auto tune.  2) The Z-100 has one button, while the Z-11 has multiple buttons for specific settings.  I like the fact that you can plug a radio interface jumper into your radio from the tuner.  LDG also makes dedicated power/SWR meters that can plug directly into some radios, such as the Yaesu FT-857.  One less piece of coax to contend with in-line.  Again, the different models suit different radios and different users.  If your antenna is resonant, your radio works well and your coax doesn't have a short, do you need one?  The choice is up to you.

You've got a radio, an antenna, a power source, an optional tuner and your log (and 2 pens or pencils).  You're ready to go, right?  What about getting the antenna in the air?  Hopefully, you'll have trees nearby if you use a dipole.  If you use a Buddistick, it fits on a camera tripod or picnic table.  The Buddipole can be mounted on an expanding tripod/pole that Buddipole makes or other portable uses such as an adaptor that you can use with painters' pole..  For auto trips, many people use painters' poles.  I've even used hose clamps and fastened two together.  I have three painters' poles, and a satellite dish tripod for RVs.  It is super heavy duty.  Neither are pack-light, but suitable for a day outing to a park, or camping in a campground.  Note that I mentioned suitable...not great.  You've still got a long pole to store in your vehicle, and one which is too bulky or heavy to take on a trail.  I also have a tiki torch stake that I hammer into the ground.  My fiberglass painters' pole fits perfectly in it.  Some guy lines to make it stable and I'm good to go.  Granted, this application does not make for a very tall antenna.  If you're on a mountain, close to water, etc. your antenna performance is increased.  However, I've worked Europe from Kentucky, with a dipole 13 feet off of the ground in front of my house, in a crowded subdivision, with a transformer and power lines a few feet away.  Many factors come into play.

One item that hams are discovering is the telescoping "light-weight" fiberglass pole.  Several companies, both in the U.S. and Europe make them.  One such company is Jackite.  The poles were originally developed for flying their mylar bird kites and banners.  They make up to a 31 foot tall model, which weighs about four pounds.  The prices are reasonable--$54 for a 28 foot model, to $69 for the 31 foot model.  They are very flexible, like a fishing pole, but heavy duty and have a 2 inch wide base.  Disclaimer: They are meant to be used for small gauge wire antennas.  Do not try to use a regular antenna, or hang a ferrite core balun from one...  It will either bend over, or break.  I know one ham who has several and he loves them.  I'm going to get one for my ham radio arsenal.  For small gauge dipoles or EndFedz, they are ideally suited.  Color patterns available include black, camo, orange, etc.  A company rep told me that the 31 foot, regular model in black is the most popular version for hams.  They do make a stronger model--the platinum series.  It costs about $54 for a 28 foot tall version, and weighs about 7 pounds.  For most uses and especially if you take it hiking, the regular weighs a lot less.  Again, the company says the regular model is the most common.  I've read where when compared side by side, they are considered superior to the version made by MFJ.  I have the 31 foot, black model.  So far, I like it, but it is definitely for light antennas.  I've been hesitant to bend it too much.  I suppose it's meant to flex a lot, but I try to be gentle with it.

Since you can probably buy some guy line without too much consideration, I won't discuss it, except to say that nylon, UV resistant cord is best, and poly rope is not well thought of.  Fancy rope clips are out there as tensioners.  People, can you say camping taut line hitch?  I use two of them, and the second one keeps tension on the first one.  One thing to note: Black cord is stealthy, but in crowded places, use some sort of marker for the guys and the antenna lines.  I use pink flag tape, available at hardware stores for usually $1-2 dollars.  I also have some orange reflective hunter strips with alligator clips, but they don't show up as well as they are much smaller.  They do catch light at night.  Use both in a campground and you'll be more likely for people to see your lines.  You can also time how long it takes the kids to steal them...  The flag tape is wide, bright and waves in the wind, catching peoples' attention...just before they walk right into them...

Portable Operations Ideas Part 3 of 4

You've got cool gear, and you're eager to use it.  One word: Coax.  I use either 18 or 50 feet of RG-8X coax, which gets the antenna clear of obstacles or leaves me a few feet if it's up high.  For having the EndFedz by the radio, the 18 foot section works well usually.  For having the antenna a bit farther away, or using a traditional dipole, the longer run of coax works better.  Why did I pick RG-8X?  Universal Radio carries it at a very affordable price, and my portable is vacation use where weight isn't really a concern.  Although, I do wish Universal Radio would carry black for runs of it, instead of that dull gray.  Realistically, it has a low attenuation for HF, and not as bad as smaller gauge for 6 meters (and a strong 2 meter signal if necessary).  Buddipole uses 25 feet of RG-58, and a 50 foot version is optional.  It is definitely lighter than RG-8X and has a bit more attenuation.  Opinions vary about using it portable.  I've heard hams talk who consider it CB coax and nothing else.  Other hams think it is great for small, portable runs.  Whatever you choose is your own personal choice.  I'd certainly be willing to use a short run of it, and for backpacking, the smaller size and weight are definitely considerations.  Remember dB charts are listed per 100 feet.  So, 25 or 50 feet is either a fourth or half of the chart.  Lower frequencies have less attenuation.

Personal comfort considerations are a major factor.  I used to teach safety in a university, and it is amazing how many people go on outings with so little planning for emergencies, or comfort factors.  Without going into great detail, consider these factors:  Adequate clothing, with rain gear if necessary.  Some food to snack on with water, sunblock or bug repellent when necessary.  Sunglasses and a hat always come in handy, particularly in the summer, at altitude or around water.  It is strongly suggested that you carry a small first aid kit.  If you take certain medicines, such as nitro pills, insulin, an epi pen, etc. have it on hand if you think you'll need it, along with an emergency list of your family, doctor, and medications you are on.  I used to backpack.  You can go from having fun on a trail, to falling off of a ledge in a couple of seconds.  Changes in altitudes can also affect people...even on a car drive to the top of a mountain, such as Newfound Gap in the Smokies.  Temperature changes, changes in precipitation, oxygen levels, etc. can affect you.  We have several Crazy Creek canoe seats, and I have an extra large Crazy Creek Chair.  Very comfy...  But, even a cheap piece of gardening foam pad from the garden center at Home Depot will keep your bottom warm, dry and comfortable.